Painting a Bathroom

A bathroom might be the smallest room in your home, but painting those small walls can take longer than you might expect. A trick to cutting down on the painting process is planning ahead: decluttering, cleaning and caulking the bathroom before you put that first layer of paint on the walls.


Step One: Declutter
Because of all the angles and corners, bathrooms can be tricky and time-consuming. Brushing and cutting in takes more time than rolling paint. To cut down on painting time, remove everything that could get in the way of your painting.
Start with the vanity and move on to the shower stall and tub. Remove anything that sits on those small shelves. Not only will it cut down on accidental paint blotches, it will prevent those items from being accidentally knocked over.
Next, move onto the switchplates. Towel bars, hooks and toilet paper holders are easy to remove. They are usually attached to a mounting bracket with very small set screws. If you don't have a tiny screwdriver, the tip of a sharp steak knife works just as well.
If possible, take the mirror down. Lights above the sink are sometimes a curlicue mess of multiple shades and decorative hardware. If you are comfortable with working with electrical things, shut the fuse off and take the whole light fixture down. If this isn't feasible, at least remove the shades.
Take the top of the toilet tank off. If you have fan grates or vents, remove those too. They can be left white or painted, but it is easiest to paint them off the wall to get to all of the detailed parts of the pieces.
If you have a shower rod spring-fitted to the walls, take that down as well.
The little shields around where the toilet tank pipe and shower head plumbing meet the wall can usually be gently pried away.
Now you have a blank slate.


Step Two: Clean
In your home, there are generally few reasons to clean walls prior to painting unless those walls are visibly very dirty. But a bathroom is different: iIt is a space where people often spray things such as deodorant, hair spray or cologne. The residue of those spray products can interfere with the painting process, so it should be wiped off the walls to allow for splotch-free painting. Any mild ammonia cleaner, even window cleaner, works just fine.


Step Three: Caulk
Think of caulking as the hidden jewel of the painting process. Many people don't do it before they apply paint to the walls, but it is necessary for the clean, professional results that you seek. Look where your countertop and cabinets meet the wall. Check along the edges of tub and shower enclosure. Chances are there are some unsightly gaps you can fill. Use good quality, paintable silicone caulking.
If you have ceramic tile that looks like it's missing some of the grout along the wall, there is special grout-colored caulk you can buy. It's easy to use, and if tiles are left uncaulked, the moist bathroom air will start making them come loose from the wall.


Step Four: Paint
Some special tips for painting bathrooms:

• Dramatic, dark colors can look stunning in a bathroom. However, if you use a very deep-colored paint, wait two or three days before using the shower or getting the room steamy. It takes up to a month for latex paint to fully cure. The colorant in deep-toned paint may run a little, giving a patchy appearance, if the paint is softened by steam while it's still very fresh.
  
• Consider at least a satin finish. Don't skimp on paint quality. Bathroom paint is subjected to changes in humidity and temperature and exposed to harsh chemicals from hair spray. It needs to be very durable.
  
• You might need an artist brush to get paint into some of those tight bathroom spaces.
  
• There is usually no need to paint the entire wall behind the toilet tank. If you paint in as far as you can, once the tank top is replaced, no one will be able to notice. Alternately, there are little skinny rollers sold at all paint stores that will fit between the tank and wall

To get a Free estimate from a professional, Colorado Springs painter, call Bart Rafferty of Confident Coating by Rafferty Construction @ 719-492-3176.


All info was taken from http://www.life123.com/home-garden/paint-wallpaper/interior-painting-techniques/how-to-paint-a-bathroom.shtml

Choosing Paint colors for a Living room

One of the most difficult decorating tasks is choosing a color scheme. Once this is done all the other pieces of the decorating “puzzle” fall into place. But many of us struggle with where to begin. Do we just pick a color we like and paint the walls? Or do we choose something safe like white or beige and just live with it? The answer to both of those questions is yes and no. You definitely want to choose a color you like and maybe that color is white or beige. But it is important to choose the “right” color. Let’s see if we can make this process a little easier.
To begin, it is important to know a little about the psychology of color. There have been thousands of studies done over the years on how color affects our moods and our behavior; all too lengthy to discuss here. Even the ancient Chinese art of Feng Shui assigns a color to each of five elements, which are wood, fire, earth, metal and water. They feel that the combination of the element and color create a reaction to one’s surroundings. With a little understanding of the impact color has on people you will be able to choose a color scheme that will help you create the perfect space for your family and those who visit your home.

The Color Spectrum

Color is broken up into warm colors of red, orange, gold and yellow; cool colors of blue, green and purple and neutral colors of tan and brown. And, although they are not truly a color, black and white are important in any decorating scheme.
The color red is associated with passion, power, heat and anger. It can act as a stimulant so is a popular color for a dining room as it stimulates the appetite and the conversation. This same stimulating effect may not be what you want on your living room walls if you are looking for a peaceful spot to relax, entertain or read. Instead, use red in your accessories and upholstery and choose a more relaxing wall color such as sage or tan.
Blue has always been one of the most popular color choices in home decorating. It is found to have a calming affect on most people. For this reason it is often found in bedrooms for both children and adults. If you are looking for a calm and relaxing living room, choosing the right shade of blue can help you accomplish this. A bright blue with red undertones may not be what you are looking for. But a soft blue with a grey undertone can appear neutral and calming and be a backdrop for upholstery of almost any color.
Green remains a popular color choice in all home décor. It is thought to invoke feelings of tranquility and self-control. As with all colors, choosing the right shade and hue is important. If you are decorating your living room in a tropical theme, for example, a green with a yellow undertone such as lime green or grass green may be right for you. If a calmer and more relaxed feel is what you are seeking, look to the colors of sage and moss. And for a traditional room a hunter or emerald green will work perfectly with the red and blue often found in this color scheme.
Yellow is a difficult color to use. While it can brighten up a dark room it has also been found to increase anxiety in the elderly and the very young. On the other hand, it encourages conversation so is an excellent choice for a living room. Choosing the right intensity is the key to success when using yellow. A deep Tuscan gold looks wonderful next to all your dark woodwork. A creamy white with yellow undertones is more appealing than a stark white wall.
Neutrals such as brown, gray and tan represent wholesomeness and stability. They are associated with the colors of earth and anything natural. During difficult economic times these colors become very popular. Because of the range of color it can be difficult to choose a neutral. The lightest gray can appear almost white and tan can have pink, yellow or gray undertones. A dark brown can have the appearance of a deep moss green. For these reasons, it is important to try many samples before choosing a color.
White is the most common wall color found in most homes. It represents cleanliness and gives a fresh appearance. But if you have tried to match your wall color to your white trim you know that white comes in many, many shades. Held up next to each other white samples can appear gray, yellow or pink. If white walls are what you desire in your living room, be sure to match the color to any existing trim such as door surrounds, baseboards and window trim.
As you can see, color affects all of us in different ways. The only factor you need to keep in mind is how color makes you and your family feel. If a bright red wall in your living room makes everyone happy and stimulated, then go for it. If dark brown walls create the moody effect you are looking for, then paint away. There are no “rules” in decorating. If it works for you, then it works. But having a little knowledge of how color can change the look and feel of your home might help you make the right choice and avoid costly mistakes down the road. We recommend consulting with a paint professional. Call Bart Rafferty of Confident Coating by Rafferty Construction for a free estimate @ 719-492-3176.

All information was copied from http://www.professorshouse.com/Your-Home/Living-Room/Articles/Choosing-Paint-colors-for-a-Living-room/

 

Stucco Crack Repair

Stucco -- also known as Portland cement plaster -- has been around for centuries, and with good reason: it's durable and pretty low-maintenance.

On the other hand, cracks inevitably appear from time to time. But don't sweat it. Repairing cracked stucco is a straightforward and inexpensive DIY project!

Skill Level: Beginner and up.

Time Investment: About two hours: one for surface prep and crack repair, and one for painting.

Cost: $10-$25 for caulk or patching compound; more if you need to buy any of the stuff listed below under "Other Supplies."

Assess the Problem. In most cases, cracks are caused by normal expansion and contraction of the home. Very long and/or deep cracks, however, will let moisture inside your home's walls. These should never be just patched up and forgotten. You may want to call in a pro to diagnose the cause, which could be as simple as poor workmanship or as serious as a structural problem.

Round Up Your Tools and Supplies. For narrow cracks -- roughly 1/4 inch wide or less -- you have a couple of choices: paintable silicone caulk or pre-mixed stucco crack repair compound  -- Both of these options come ready-mixed and can be applied with a caulking gun.

For more substantial cracks, pick up a quart-sized bucket of pre-mixed stucco patching compound. DAP and QUIKRETE both offer versions that are convenient and easy to apply. Because these types of synthetic stucco are made of acrylic latex, they are also quick-drying, flexible and paintable.

Tip: Don't buy an enormous bag of dry stucco mix to fill cracks. You won't need anywhere near this much. Save those big bags for major patching projects; the kind caused by your teenager reversing his car into the house, for instance.

Other Supplies:
- Chisel or screwdriver
- Hose and/or bucket of water and a sponge
- Wire brush
- Small broom or stiff-bristled brush
- Bricklayer's trowel
- Priming and painting supplies: Exterior acrylic primer, exterior acrylic top coat (to match existing paint color), 1 small paintbrush (1 inch wide or less), stirring stick, and plenty of water for cleanup.

Directions:1. Surface Prep. Gently pry away loose pieces of stucco using the chisel or screwdriver. If the area in or around the crack is dirty, scrub it down with the wire brush. Brush with the broom or stiff-bristled brush to remove dust.

2. Wet the area thoroughly. Existing, dry stucco will suck the moisture out of freshly applied wet stucco or patching compound, preventing it from bonding properly. Wetting the work surface discourages this problem.

3. Repair the Crack. Pack the exposed area with caulk or stucco repair compound. Smooth with your fingers or a damp cloth. Next, take the trowel and roughen up the surface a little bit, just enough so that it matches the wall's overall texture. If you used silicone caulk, you can actually press a little sand into the top layer to make it look more stucco-like.

For a deep crack extending all the way to the base layer (or "scratch coat") fill a quarter inch deep and allow it to cure for a day or two. Depending on the product, you may need to mist the area with water now and again. Finally, fill it the rest of the way and add texture with the trowel.

Tip: To encourage an even tighter seal, first apply a masonry bonding agent inside the crack then fill. Alternatively, if recurring cracks have been a problem in the past, try skipping standard caulks or stucco repair compounds altogether and try a masonry repair product with added flexibility.

4. Cure and Paint. Unlike real stucco, pre-mixed repair compounds dry quickly. The time needed to cure varies from product to product. Just follow the instructions, allowing adequate drying time, then add a layer of primer. Allow to dry then paint to match the rest of the wall.

Hopefully you'll achieve an exact match. If not, the patched area may stand out, in which case you should consider repainting the entire wall.

This all sounds easy enough and is for small cracks. But  for more prominant cracks you will want a professional stucco contractor to do the job as they will have more experience with tecnique and color matching. If you want that perfect, matched, not repaired, look call Bart Rafferty of Confident Coatings by Rafferty Construction @ 719-492-3176 for a free estimate.





All info copied from a 3rd party website

Wood Shingle Replacement

Replacing a damaged or missing wooden roof shingle can allow you to avoid leaks and resulting water damage as well as help prolong the lifespan of a roof that is becoming compromised by age. If more than 20 percent of the shingles are damaged, consider replacing the roof altogether. But when just a few tiles are compromised, making timely repairs will ultimately save you time, money and a lot of headaches. However, bear in mind that while replacing a wood shingle is a job a handy do-it-yourselfer can take on, it is challenging, and safety protocols must be followed strictly. Be sure to enlist a friend to help, in case you run into trouble or take a tumble and need emergency assistance. We recommend you call a local professional contractor. Bart Rafferty of Confident Coatings is a trusted reliable contractor call hin for a free estimate @ 719-492-3176

What You Need

• Extension ladder
• Chisel
• Hammer
• Hacksaw or shingle ripper
• Small pry bar
• Replacement shingles
• Roofing nails (use hot-dipped galvanized or electroplated nails for attaching wood tiles)
• Wood block
• Roofing cement

Step by Step Instructions

1. Check your crawlspace or attic for leaks and visible points of light along the ceiling, both of which indicate a problem with the shingles. Also check the roof from the ground using a pair of strong binoculars. Look for cracked or broken shingles, paying close attention to the area around chimneys.
2. Position the extension ladder at a safe angle. This means the bottom of the ladder should be placed roughly one-quarter of the distance between the ground and the roof’s edge out from the house, with the top of the ladder propped several feet higher than the roof. Do not attempt the repair if the roof is wet from rain or snow because it will be slippery. Have a partner stand at the base of the ladder to spot you while you climb.
3. Remove the damaged shingle by carefully splitting it along the wood grain with a hammer and chisel, then extracting the fragments. Next, use a small pry bar to raise the shingle that lies above the one you just removed until you can reach the nails that held the damaged shingle in place. Carefully cut the nails with either a shingle ripper or a hacksaw. Pull out any remaining pieces of the damaged shingle.
4. Measure the space you will need to fill. Replacement shingles can be purchased at a hardware store or roofing supply center. Always buy a few extra in case you make a mistake with cutting or installation.
5. Cut a replacement wood shingle approximately 3/8 of an inch narrower than the measurement. Shingles expand when wet or when the weather is humid and this will allow for a good fit.
6. Insert the replacement shingle. It should protrude no more than 1/2 inch beyond the adjacent shingles. Notice where the shingle you just installed meets the lip of the shingle just above. Along this point, drive two roofing nails into the new shingle at a 45-degree angle.
7. Place a wood block along the lip of the replacement shingle. With hammer in hand, repeatedly strike the wood block until the replacement shingle is even with the adjacent shingles. The nail heads should slide beneath the shingle above. Using the wood block as a buffer will prevent the shingle from being damaged by the hammer’s impact.
8. Use a small amount of roofing cement to cover the exposed nail heads and further weatherproof your roof.
9. Have your partner make sure the ladder is secure as you climb down

Again, this all sounds simple enough but we recommend calling Bart Rafferty @ 719-492-3176 for a free estimate.

All info taken from http://homerenovations.about.com/od/houseexteriorframework/a/artreplacewoods.htm

Caring for Wood Siding

Wood siding is one of the most beautiful of all types of siding—and one of the most expensive. If you’d like to avoid repairs that could cost thousands of dollars, and you’d like to keep your clapboard, shingles, or board-and-batten lasting for decades, regular upkeep and maintenance is critical.

Finish, protect wood siding
Wood must be properly finished with a paint, stain, or clear sealer. Left unprotected, it’s susceptible to rot and decay caused by moisture. Of special concern is the fact that wood expands and contracts with normal changes in humidity and temperature. These fluctuations may cause paint finishes to chip and crack, and over time puts stress on caulked seams around windows, doors, and at corners. If the caulk separates and fails to keep out moisture, wood rot may develop. Even species of wood that have a natural resistance to rot, such as redwood, cypress, and cedar, may decay if not properly protected from the elements.
Paint comes in unlimited colors and can be changed at any time. A house with wood
siding must be repainted at least every five years, or as soon as the paint finish begins to deteriorate. A DIY paint job requires about 60 hours of labor.  We recommend letting a professional, local painter handle the job. They are more efficient if you've never painted more than 1 more before.


Stain is a good choice for wood because it allows the beauty of the grain to show through. Stain penetrates wood fibers and helps seal them against moisture; it’s also resistant to the cracking and chipping that affects paint. Because stain is a penetrating sealer—not a coating, like paint—it’s difficult to change the color of previously stained wood. Staining a house is less labor-intensive than painting because prep work is minimal. Expect to pay $2,000-$4,000 for a pro crew to stain a two-story, 2,300-sq. ft. house. Using a rented paint sprayer, a two-person DIY team can re-stain a two-story house in 4-5 days for about $500, including the stain.
Clear sealers prevent moisture damage and allow wood to retain its natural color, but they must be reapplied at least every two years. Clear sealers are formulated to help slow the process that allows ultraviolet light to turn wood silvery gray. However, all natural wood, regardless of species, eventually turns gray when exposed to years of sunlight. Using a rented paint sprayer, a two-person DIY team can refinish a two-story, 2,300 sq. ft. house in a 3-day weekend for about $500, including the finish.


Clean stains on wood siding
Dirt is the most common cause of discoloration on wood siding. Clean annually using warm, soapy water and a soft-bristled brush. Divide your house into 20-foot sections, clean each section from top to bottom and rinse before moving on.
Mildew appears as black spotty stains. Clean the area with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. Wear eye protection and protect plants from splashes. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Rust stains often appear as dark black splotches and vertical streaks. They’re usually caused by a metal fastener, such as a nail or screw, that wasn’t galvanized. Contact with moisture causes the fastener to oxidize, leaving streaks. To remove the stain, dissolve 4 oz. oxalic acid (available at hardware stores and home improvement centers) in 1 cup warm water.
Wear eye protection and acid-proof gloves; avoid splashing the mixture onto adjacent surfaces. Apply the mixture to the stain and gently scrub with a soft bristle brush. Rinse thoroughly with water. Refinish the spot if necessary. Problem nails must be replaced with a galvanized or stainless steel fasteners.




Restore the color of natural wood siding
Siding that has discolored with age can be restored to its original color by applying a wood cleaner or brightener. These products often are intended for use on wood decks, but they work well on natural wood siding. They’re available at hardware stores and home improvement centers. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Replace wood siding
Replace wood siding that show signs of damage. The most common damage comes from accidentally hitting the siding with sticks and stones thrown from a lawn mower, or from objects, like baseballs. Occasionally, wood siding may crack due to changes in atmospheric moisture. Repairs to wood siding require the expertise to remove the damaged siding while leaving surrounding siding intact. Unless you have the skills, hire a professional carpenter or siding contractor. Expect to pay $200-$300 to replace one or two damaged siding panels.
Prevent damage to wood siding
A house with wood siding is most vulnerable to water infiltration where siding butts against windows, doors, and corner moldings, says Frank Lesh, a professional house inspector in Chicago and past president of the American Society of Home Inspectors. Look for caulk that has cracked due to age, or has pulled away from adjacent surfaces, leaving gaps.
Reapply a color-matched exterior caulk during dry days with temperatures in excess of 65 degrees F.
Lesh also stresses that no bush, tree branches, or shrubbery be allowed to touch the house siding. Foliage conducts moisture that can find its way into cracks and tiny openings in siding. “You should have enough room to comfortably walk between your house and any plant materials,” he says.


To get a free estimate from a local Colorado Springs painter, call Bart Rafferty of Confident Coatings by Rafferty Construction @ 719-493-3176.




Info from http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/wood-siding-care-and-maintenance/

Choosing the Best Stucco Contractors for the Job

Stucco contractors are experts in applying stucco exterior on homes and buildings. Stucco is a substance that is used on many homes and buildings in this country. It is made with a mixture of sand, lime, water and other ingredients and is used to create a unique, matte-like look on the exterior of a building. Whenever stucco is placed on a building, it must be installed by experienced stucco contractors. If stucco is not installed properly, it can lead to moisture getting into the walls of a home. This can cause numerous problems including causing mold to form inside the walls of a home. Stucco has been used for years and is most popular in certain types of architecture such as Greek and Spanish homes. When stucco contractors begin a job, they must cover the entire home with tar paper. They will also cover the home in a wire or metal screening. These items are necessary to keep moisture out of the home and begin placing stucco on the walls of the home. As soon as the home is properly covered with these materials, stucco contractors will begin applying the stucco substance to the home. This is done using trowels and other types of tools.
When the stucco is placed on the walls, the contractors will rub it in swirling motions. This will create a textured look when it dries. This substance will dry relatively quickly and it becomes very hard. This hard surface makes it an ideal substance for the exterior of homes. It is very important to choose stucco contractors that have been completing projects like this for a while. There are a lot of contractors out there that offer this service, but not all of the contractors have the skills necessary for this job. If it is not done right, you will have problems. The surface may also look very bad if the stucco contractors do not know how to finish it. When you hire stucco contractors, they may tell you about your color options. Stucco is most commonly seen in an off-white or tan color. With the addition of pigments, you can actually have stucco in almost any color you would like.
This is important if you are looking for a unique color. You might also want to make sure that the color you choose matches the rest of your home. For example, if you have brick on your home, find a stucco color that blends well with the colors in the brick. You may also decide to match shudders or roof colors to the stucco. There is one reason why many homes located in hot climates have stucco exteriors. Stucco is a substance that is great for keeping heat out of a home. It regulates the heat. This helps keep homes cooler in the hot, summer months. You will notice that a lot of the homes in Florida and other hot places use this substance to cover exterior walls. This is one of the reasons why.
People find that their energy bills are a lot lower with stucco as the exterior. Stucco also looks great. It makes a home look very classy and nice. It is perfect for homes in subdivisions or for homes on large parcels of land. Before having this service done, ask several stucco contractors for bids. You should also ask them about their experience and procedures. Make sure that you choose a contractor that is highly experienced. You can even ask to see some of the contractors past jobs. He should be able to give you addresses so that you will be able to see the finished products.

For a free estimate from a professional, referenced, Colorado stucco contractor, call Bart Rafferty of Confident Coatings by Rafferty Construction @ 719-492-3176.

From Website Noggin

Considereing Wood Siding?

Perhaps no siding material has enjoyed more success than wood. Even with a variety of "low maintenance" siding options available wood siding continues to be popular with consumers. Ironically most people who choose a different material will still select a "wood siding look" for their home as nearly all of the non-wood siding products that are available have tried to copy many of the common wood siding styles. Cedar and redwood are two very popular varieties of wood siding for their natural occurring preservatives but pine, spruce and fir are also common options.
Wood siding offers a lot of positives not the least of which is a beautiful classic appearance. Wood is available in a variety of styles and can be painted any color necessary to fit the look of your home. (Clapboard, also known as lap siding, as well as board and batten are two of the most popular options.) Wood is a long lasting siding material that can last 30 + years when it is properly installed and cared for. In fact wood that is well cared for will most likely have a much more pleasing appearance than a low quality vinyl product will after 20 years. Wood is a natural renewable material which does not cause environmental concerns when the time comes to dispose of it. Wood siding also offers good insulating qualities which can help reduce your heating and cooling energy bills an important consideration considering raising energy costs.

The obvious downside to wood is simply the ongoing maintenance it requires. You should plan on power washing your wood siding annually and painting or otherwise sealing it as it begins to show wear from the elements. Typical warning signs would be a finish that is faded or is showing signs of mold and mildew. Under normal conditions you will need to re-paint every 4-10 years depending upon the climate where you live and the quality of the paint job that was previously applied. While the maintenance requirements for wood are not extensive our society has become enamored with the idea of "zero maintenance" which has helped foster the popularity of vinyl siding in particular. If you are installing new wood siding you should be aware that some companies will offer pre-primed or sealed boards which not only reduces the amount of work at the point of installation but should give you a more even covering which will do a better job of protecting your siding.
Wood siding will vary in price depending upon your location, the type of wood you have chosen (redwood, a western grown tree will cost more in an eastern U.S. location) and how quickly the wood is able to grow to a harvested size. Typically, wood siding will be about average on the siding cost scale.
Wood Siding:
Longevity: 30 + years if well cared for
Maintenance: Annual power washing along with re-painting every 4-10 years
Cost: Average

For a free estimate on wood siding maintenence from a professional local contractor call Bart Rafferty of Confident Coatings by Rafferty Construction.

How to Treat and Stain Wood Siding

Learn how to keep wood siding looking like new.

Step 1: Treat With a Bleach Solution

Since white pine, the wood selected for the exterior logs, has a tendency to grow mold, the exterior logs were prepped with a bleach solution before staining. For best results, the stain should be applied within 48 hours of the bleach treatment.

Step 2: Apply the Stain

Wearing a respirator to help protect against fumes, apply the stain with an airless paint sprayer (Image 1). Have at least one person follow behind, back-brushing, or smoothing out the stain application by hand with brushes (Image 2). The brushing step helps to ensure an even coat with no bubbles or drips. Since spraying is a faster process than brushing, the challenge is for the "brushers" to complete their work before the stain has a chance to dry. Like stain or paint used on conventional houses, log stain needs to be reapplied every three to five years. The life of the stain can be extended somewhat with a good washing once or twice yearly.

To let a professional local contractor take the reigns, call Bart Rafferty of Confident Coatings by Rafferty Construction @ 719-492-3176

Painting Concrete

Concrete painting is trickier than painting most surfaces: it breathes, transports moisture, and sucks up paint.

Consequently, concrete painting requires skill and meticulous preparation. And while you can paint drywall in a day or two, you’ll need a week or more to finish painting concrete. Here’s how to paint your concrete foundation and walls, and ramp up your curb appeal.

Clean the concrete
Cleaning concrete is a vital first step because the porous surface tends to trap dirt, grease, and oil.

• Remove dirt and grease with trisodium phosphate ($6.30 per quart concentrate), or chose a more Earth-friendly cleaner like Krud Kutter’s pre-paint cleaner ($10 for 32 ounces)

• Yank off vines and moss growing on the foundation. Use a pressure washer to finish off remaining roots and dirt.

• Remove efflorescence, a white powder that forms on moist concrete. Try Krud Kutter Concrete Clean & Etch ($8.50 for 32 ounces); if you need more cleaning muscle, try phosphoric acid masonry cleaner ($27 per gallon).

Strip old paint
Strip peeling or blistering paint indoors with a wire brush ($3 to $5), a paint scraper ($10 to $20), and lots of elbow grease.

Outdoors, get rid of old paint with a power washer (rents for $40 to $75 per day).
Seal interior concrete before painting
Water moves easily through porous concrete, so sealing interior walls is necessary to prevent moisture from seeping in, promoting mold growth and that cold, damp basement feel. Use a masonry sealer, such as ThoroSeal, that also patches cracks ($35 for a 50-pound bag).

Carefully follow directions for mixing, applying, and curing the sealer. ThoroSeal, for example, requires two coats; the manufacturer recommends curing for five to seven days before applying the second coat.
Priming
Concrete primer, called block primer, fills pores and evens out the surface. For exterior foundations and walls, use exterior-grade block filler, such as Behr’s Concrete and Masonry Bonding Primer, which also is good for interior concrete ($17.98 per gallon). Primer dries in two hours; wait at least eight hours, but no more than 30 days, to paint.
Painting
Masonry paint (also called elastomeric paint or elastomeric wall coating) is a good choice for concrete painting because it contains binders that contract and expand with the concrete. Exterior house paint can crack and peel on concrete.

Masonry paint ($20 per gallon) can be tinted and is much thicker than exterior paint. Apply it with a masonry brush ($5 to $8), a high-capacity (3/4-inch or higher) roller, or a texture roller ($5.50).

Some masonry paint is thicker than exterior paint and contains fine particles that can clog air sprayers. If you want to spray-paint cement, ask your local paint store for a product that will work well in a sprayer ($300).

No matter how you apply paint, let it dry for a day between coats. You’ll probably need two to three coats, so check the long-range weather forecast before you begin.

To let a professional handle it, and for a free quote from a professional Colorado Springs painter,
call Bart Rafferty @ 719-492-3176

Painting Concrete to Look Like Brick

You can add character to plain concrete walls, floors, patios and sidewalks by giving them a faux brick finish. The brick pattern effectively hides cracks and flaws in the concrete and transforms a drab area into an inviting space. You can complete even a large project in a weekend by using inexpensive stencils or sponges and quick-drying latex and acrylic paints. Surface preparation is minimal and cleanup requires only soap and water.

1. Remove dirt, stains and residues from the concrete with a dilute solution of chlorinated trisodium phosphate (TSP) and a stiff brush. Rinse the area with water and allow it to dry thoroughly.

2. Choose a latex paint for the color of the faux mortar. Use a paint roller with a thick nap to apply the paint. Let it dry as directed by the manufacturer and apply a second coat.

3. Select an acrylic paint for your bricks. Lay your stencil over horizontal surfaces such as floors or sidewalks and paint one area at a time. Allow the paint to set before moving the stencil.
4. Use a rectangular cellulose sponge with closely spaced cells to apply the acrylic on walls where stencils are hard to manage. Apply the paint with light pressure to avoid streaks. Stagger rows of bricks and leave about 3/8-inch between rows.

5.Give the painted bricks ample time to dry. Finally, mix lighter and darker acrylic tints with your base color and dab it onto the bricks with a sponge to create a more realistic look.

Use textured paints to give the bricks and mortar a rougher look.

To get a free estimate from a professional painting contractor call Bart Rafferty 719-492-3176

Interior Paint Removal

When painting, it is easy to accidentally get paint on objects that you did not intend to have painted. Once the paint is dried, interior paint will not generally come off of things without some help. If you are lucky, you've gotten paint on a hard surface such as tile, vinyl flooring or wood, at which point you may simply scrape it off with your fingernail or a dull butter knife. If you have gotten paint on fabric, carpet or upholstery, your removal job will be a bit more involved.

Instructions

1. Remove all of the paint you can by blotting with rags if the paint is still wet. Try not to push the paint deeper into the upholstery or carpet. Use wet rags to aid in the removal of as much paint as possible once the majority of the paint is cleaned up.
2. If your paint is already dry, saturate it with Goof Off and allow it to sit for about five minutes. If your paint is still wet, skip to Step 4.

3

Use clean rags to scrub as much of the paint up as possible. Keep reapplying the Goof Off until all the plastic feeling part of the paint is removed and only the dye remains.

4

Use the Spot Shot on carpeting, or upholstery stain remover on furniture to get the remainder of the paint and paint dye out of your soft surfacing. Use clean white rags for scrubbing

To let a professional painter do it instead, call Bart Rafferty @ 719-492-3176 for a free estimate.

Elastomeric Stucco Paint

Colors are the presenters of life. Each color has its own meaning and fantasy. Applying an elegant color combination on the exterior of your home makes it attractive. At present stucco paints are very common in use. Every home owner has a wish to use this paint for the home exterior. It is due to the prevailing fashion and also the durability of stucco. Considering stucco and paints, you will find that the use of elastomeric stucco paint is less as compared to standard stucco paint.
How is elastomeric stucco paint different than standard paint? How to use this special paint? How long is this paint durable for? How flexible shoul your budget be to apply this paint? Before planning any home improvement these questions must pinch in mind. It is usual and every wise person always thinks about these matters before purchase of any new thing. To get precise guidelines about elastomeric stucco paint keep on reading the following lines.
Elastomeric stucco paint is a special kind of paint which is denser and is perhaps the best exterior finish. This paint forms a long-lasting, hard film that gives a water-resistant covering to approximately any formation. This smear is resistant to sunshine, high temperature, arctic and breeze driven rainfall. You can apply elastomeric stucco paint to any surface such as concrete, brick, cinderblock or other such similar materials. If you are not having any experience to apply any paint then it is better to take the services of a professional but if still you think that you can do it yourself, let’s go and do it. Here are some steps and tips you have to follow while applying elastomeric stucco paint to make your work done efficiently.
Firstly leave your exterior stucco for almost sixty days after building. This will help to dry the stucco and all the moisture will be dry. Then you have to prepare surface for appliance of elastomeric stucco paint. Clean the wall and remove all dust and dirt. Then fill up any existing gaps on the wall surface with sealant and make the surface level with out in dig. After this you have apply the elastomeric stucco paint with brush or roller. Completing the elastomeric stucco paint leave it for about forty eight hours to dry and the new glamorous look of your home is ready.
The question about the durability of elastomeric stucco paint can be answered in just few simple words that it is as hard that can last for about five years. But for the appliance of elastomeric stucco paint you must have good budget to get the quality paint which should last for according to your expectations and give a bright look. Elastomeric aint comes in mant shades and colors. To hepl you find the best color and option for your home, call a local professional Colorado Springs stucco conctractor, Bart Rafferty at (719) 492-3176 for a free estimate.

Exterior Paint Removal

I wish there were a way around this step but in the world of good paint preparation, removing loose paint and preparing the surface will always involve hand scraping and sanding. As mentioned earlier, even with power washing you will still have to scrape and sand to properly prepare the surface since not all loose paint is removed with a power washer.

• Only work on removing paint and sanding when the paint is dry. There are several tools you can use including a paint scraper, putty knife, heat gun paint remover, sandpaper and sanding block.
• To start scraping you find the weak link. Using a 6"-8" wide putty knife, find the loosest part of the peeling paint and get under it and lift and scrape.
• Use the corner of the putty knife to dig and chip at corners of the bad paint to remove as much poorly adhered paint as possible. You can try wire brushes too, but I've found they work only on the looser paint and you need the hard edge of a scraper or putty knife to really remove loose paint.
• A detail scraper is another scraping tool you may use to scrape away at loose paint in small detailed areas like around molding.
• On wood siding make sure you don't gouge the wood with scraping.
• A heat gun paint remover can be used to loosen thicker paint. Just make sure to keep the heat gun moving to avoid excessive heat build up. As the paint softens, scrape it loose with a putty knife.

Once the loose paint is scraped away and all remaining paint has good bond to the surface, the next step is to sand the surfaces where paint has been removed. It is important to feather or blend and minimize the hard edge visible at the seam of where paint has been removed and where it remains. Feathering is especially important on wood siding since siding is smoother than say a painted brick surface and surface irregularities are more noticeable on smooth siding.

• Before sanding fill in any cracks, holes or gouges with exterior epoxy wood filler and let dry.
• If you have large areas that need patching, either replace the wood or if it's not that serious, you can try an automotive body filler instead of wood filler.
• With the paint scraped and the holes filled, you are ready to sand. Start with about an 80 grit sandpaper and an orbital power sander for larger areas.
• For smaller sanding areas, a sanding block with hand sanding works well. Use about 120 grit sandpaper in these areas.
• Sand areas smooth working to feather and eliminate all hard edges.

Once the surface is scraped and sanded and the surrounding landscape area is protected with cloth drop cloths, it's time to give your house a good washing. Cleaning the surface free of dirt, grease, loose or flaking paint is essential for the primer and paint to properly adhere to the substrate.

• Remove your home's window screens, storm doors and storm windows and anything else that should not get painted.
• If you have a power washer use it at the lowest pressure possible while still cleaning the surface of dirt. Use a wide spread fan tip and NEVER place the tip close to the wall surface. Remember, you can do serious damage to your exterior wall if improperly used.
• If you're going to wash the house by hand it's worth it to get a car wash brush unit that gets attached to the garden hose to help make shorter work of this task.
• Put on your eye protection and in a bucket mix water and trisodium phosphate (TSP) to clean the wall surface and degloss any existing paint. Be careful using TSP, it is a powerful chemical.
• Work from the top of your house down. Rinse each section you complete with clean water.

If your house has any areas of mildew, you must kill the mildew with a mildew cleaner or make your own solution using bleach and water.
Once the house has been washed and cleaned, let the house dry. This is very important or else the paint will peel prematurely ruining the entire project. Not letting the house dry before painting is a common cause of paint failure.

• If you're going to paint with latex paint, then wait at least one day.
• If you're using oil based paint then you need to wait at least one week before you paint.
• If you have used a power washer at high pressure to clean and remove loose paint, then you may have to extend these drying time recommendations depending how wet the wall surface became.

Caulk gaps around windows, doors, between siding, molding, columns, etc. If you have wood siding, look for nail heads that may be sticking up a little bit. If you find any, nail them back down using a nail countersink and putty the hole.
Once you've completed these tasks, you're now ready to paint with the confidence that you have done a professional job in paint preparation and your paint job will last many years.

If all this sounds like alot, thats because it is. You must follow all these steps for you project to turn out right. For a free professional estimate, from a local Colorado Springs painter, call Bart Rafferty @ 719- 492-3176

Do it yourself Stucco Repair

The reason most homeowners paint their stucco is because the cost of restucco is more than just hiring a painter to paint over the existing stucco. Although seemingly less expensive up front, the misconception that painting is cheaper couldn't be more wrong. Here's why...Once, usually within 2 to 3 years, the paint starts decaying, chaulking and peeling. Cost of stucco repairs are subject to the amount of repairs needed, the age of the stucco and the difficulty of the job.

The range should start at a minimum of $300 for anything up to about 50 SF, plus about $5 per SF for the next 300 SF. As the amount of repairs increases, the SF cost should stabilize or decrease a little. New stucco should cost approximately $3.50 to $4.00 per SF.”
$400 is sort of reasonable as small repair jobs cost more (per sq ft) than large jobs.
Most contractors have a minimum charge and/or a charge for a service call.
That’s part of what drives the “do it yourself” market.
Get a couple of bids.
Be sure you get and check references.
Be sure your contractor carries liability insurance and workman’s comp for their employees.

Here are few other areas to cover in this article:

What is white-wash?
A. Getting your home "white-washed" is similar to getting your home painted. Typically when stucco is applied to an existing home there is a two-part process, a wash coat, and a texture coat. The problems that arise with only white-washing your home are the shortened life of the job, and the cost of future stucco repair and finishing. The reason stucco lasts so long is that the cement is also mixed with sand. Silica sand resists wear and weather for years, where a "white-wash" is just watery white cement brushed over the wall. This begins to chalk and wear within one year. To make things worse, just like painted stucco, it must be sandblasted off when a restucco is desired. A traditional stucco coating would consist of this same white-wash coat, however, over that another coat is applied consisting of a cement mixture including twice as much sand, thus creating strength and resistance to aging and weather. The white cement may also be colored for a pleasing look.

What is Kickout Flashing?
A. A critical location where moisture entry can do considerable damage is where a lower roof cornice stops in the middle of a stucco wall. Kick-outs should be fabricated with watertight seems and be big and broad enough to handle water run-off from a variety of roof pitches. Another critical element is the use of gutters to evacuate the water away from these sensitive locations. There are several local materials suppliers that now offer these kick-outs in both left and right versions. Installing the kick-out after the installation of the shingles is a very difficult procedure for the lather or stucco contractor to perform. For this reason it should be coordinated so that the kick-out is installed by the roofer as the shingles are being laid up. This "kick-out" flashing will help keep water from running down the new stucco wall and add life to the original appearance of your stucco.

It is best to get a qualified, professional to do stucco work as it gets very complicated and you want it done right the first time.

Click here for a free estimate from a local Colorado Springs stucco repair contractor. Or call Bart Rafferty or Rafferty Painting and Construction.

Colorad Springs Interior Painting

A room looks wonderful with a fresh coat of paint. But if you have a "Love-Hate" relationship with painting, you'll want to read our tips on getting a great finished product. You might even enjoy the project as much as the finished product! Don't try to get everything done in one day. Use the day before painting day to gather furniture in the center of the room, patch cracks and holes, put blue painter's tape around doors and windows, and cover wall and ceiling light fixtures (light bulbs removed, of course!) with large plastic bags. Now on to paint choices.

Latex paints

Latex Paints can be thinned with water and are easily applied. Compared to oil-based paints, the advantages of Latex paints are:

• Less odor
• Water cleanup
• Nonflammable
• Rapid drying
• Easy touchup
• Easy application, even on damp surfaces
• Better gloss and color retention (less fading) on exterior surfaces
• No yellowing on interior surfaces
• Remains more flexible and less brittle, which makes them less likely to crack and peel.

The disadvantage, especially of some lower-quality or promotional products, are poorer adhesion to blistered, peeling or chalking surfaces, and, in some cases, less-effective hiding qualities.
Latex paint films on wood allow moisture to evaporate through the film, reducing blistering.

Oil-Based Paints

Oil-based paints consist of a pigment in a vehicle made up of resins and thinners. When thinners evaporate, the resins form a hard coating while the pigment forms the color.
Major advantages of oil-based paint are:

• Better penetration of the surface
• Better adhesion
• Wearability
• Better flow and leveling
• Dry to a smoother finish with fewer brush or roller marks.

The disadvantages of oil-based paints are the odor, cleanup with solvents or thinners and longer drying time. Also, oil-based paints cannot be applied to moist surfaces.

Interior Paints And Enamels

Interior paints are available in flat (no shine), satin, semigloss and gloss (high shine).
Enamels provide a high-gloss washable finish for hard-wear areas or for rooms such as the bath and kitchen that require a high resistance to moisture, dirt and grease. Today, companies not only sell high-gloss, but eggshell or even flat enamels. Interior paints are sold in various formulations-oil based, alkyd based or synthetic based, latex, etc.
Flat paints usually have an alkyd- base that thins with turpentine or mineral spirits, or a latex base that thins with water. Latex paints are usually vinyl or acrylic based or a combination of the two.
Alkyd Flat paints may hide better with one coat than will comparable latex flats, but brushes and other tools must be washed with turpentine or a similar solvent. Latex flats spread easily, especially on porous surfaces, and seldom require a primer. Tools clean with water.
Flat wall paints are usually applied to ceilings and walls, except in kitchens and baths. Semigloss or gloss paints withstand the frequent washings required in these two rooms.
For windows, doors, wood trim and other woodwork, satin, semigloss or gloss enamels are recommended. These surfaces get more wear than walls, more fingerprints and soil. Because glossier enamels wash more readily, they are more desirable.
Semigloss Latex paints serve well as finishes for wood-trim areas. They have the advantage of water cleanup.
Because enamels and gloss paints dry rapidly, more care must be exercised in application because they tend to brushmark, especially on hot, dry days. Preparation of interior surfaces is vital to good end results. Surfaces must be free from grease, dirt, mildew, chalking, etc., washed well, thoroughly rinsed with clear water and allowed to dry before repainting. Cracks and holes must be repaired and patched areas spot primed.
If surfaces are badly soiled, a trisodium-phosphate (TSP) cleaner may be necessary. However, phosphates are a recognized pollutant and TSP is more prone to deposit crystals that impair adhesion than do some other products.
When repainting glossy surfaces, sufficient cleaning materials must be used to dull surfaces, or they should be lightly sanded. An alternative to sanding is the use of a liquid cleaning/dulling solvent. High-gloss surfaces typically do not provide good adhesion for new coats of paint.
Painting over wallpaper is not recommended; the old covering should be removed. Once painted, wallpaper is extremely difficult to remove.

Do's of Interior Painting

• Wash all grease and dirt off walls and woodwork.
• Patch cracks in walls and ceilings before painting.
• Seal all new surfaces with a primer.
• Scrape off all loose paint and sand the surface to a smooth finish.
• Stir paint thoroughly before any applications.
• Allow new plaster to dry before painting.
• Properly ventilate area to be painted.

Don'ts of Interior Painting

• Don't expect good results on dirty surfaces.
• Don't paint over a damp surface with oil-base paints.
• Don't apply the second coat of paint until the first coat has dried properly.
• Don't sand woodwork across the grain.
• Don't change cans of paint in the middle of a wall area.
• Don't add thinner to the product unless directions call for it.

Lead Warning

About two thirds of the homes built before 1940 and one-half of the homes built from 1940 to 1960 contain heavily leaded paint. Some homes built after 1960 also contain heavily leaded paint. The sale of lead-based paint for residential use was banned in 1978. Lead can be on the walls, the woodwork and on the outside of houses.
Lead paint in good condition is not usually a problem except in places where painted surfaces rub against one another and create dust. For example, when you open a window, the painted surfaces rub against one another. In older buildings where the paint is not in good condition, lead paint can chip off or wear off. Lead dust and chips can also be created during preparation of surfaces for painting and during renovating or remodeling. The dust and chips are especially hazardous to small children.
Lead can be harmful even at Iow levels. Even children who appear healthy may have high levels of lead in their blood. You can't tell if a child has lead poisoning unless you have him or her tested. In many cases, the harm lead causes cannot be reversed.
Being exposed to lead can affect a child's mental growth. Lead interferes with nervous system development, which can cause learning disabilities and impaired hearing. Children with lead poisoning may complain of headaches or stomach aches or become very grouchy, but they often show no symptoms of lead poisoning.
Adults can get lead poisoning through occupational exposure as well as through home renovation and remodeling activities. In adults, lead's health effects include high blood pressure. In extreme cases, lead poisoning can cause comas, kidney or brain damage, or death.
If you are remodeling, test for lead paint first. Some local health departments offer a lead testing service. If this service is not available, you should hire a qualified inspector.
If high levels of lead are detected, you should not attempt to remove the lead paint yourself. Instead, you should hire a person who is specially trained to correct lead paint problems, who knows how to do the work safely and has the proper equipment to clean up thoroughly. Improper removal of heavily leaded paint can endanger the health and lives of the entire family.
Contact the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-LEAD-FYI for information. The purpose of this federally funded service is to provide information to the public on lead.

If all this sounds to difficult or complex, that's because, it is. Your best, and safest plan is to hire a proffesional local, Colorado Springs painting contractor. Call Bart Rafferty of Rafferty Painting and Construction for a free estimate @ (719) 492-3176.

Colorado Springs House Painting Scams

In home improvement, scams do happen. Homeowners may not want to believe it, but scams are not limited to World wide web get rich quick schemes or pyramid schemes. They are a extremely real part of the residence improvement and home contracting game.

A painting scam can cost a homeowner a fantastic deal of funds, time and headaches. Trying to avoid these untrustworthy contractors need to be at the top of each homeowner\’s list when they are looking to get professional work done. When painters flake out in the middle of a job, it will not only leave the homeowner frustrated, but will grow to be a sore spot for the complete neighborhood. Having a house in the middle of the neighborhood that sits for days or weeks with a poor, unfinished paint job can aggravate even the neighbors. Some contractors might run their own painting scam by making a great very first impression only to flake out the day after. After dazzling their prospective clients with extreme promises, they may show up for work the next day promptly at 8am and work by way of until 4 or 5pm. The homeowner could come residence from work to see a terrific job, even though not finished, and could really feel satisfied with their hire. Their lawn may be clean and not littered with burger wrappers and soda cans that is frequent with so numerous construction or job web sites. Nevertheless, the next day the contractors might not show up. The homeowner may possibly leave for work thinking the crew is just running late, but upon coming property from work will discover that their trustworthy and friendly painting contractor has not shown up at all. The following day they may possibly not show up once more either.


This sort of painting scam can be very frustrating. The homeowner does not know when to anticipate the contractor or what to anticipate if they ever come back. Most will eventually come back and finish the job, but it may possibly take a week or possibly longer. Being left in limbo is never a pleasant experience. Not knowing what to anticipate can drive a homeowner crazy. So it is important to recognize certain clues when hiring a residence painting contractor. A homeowner may keep away from being victim of a painting scam by understanding just who they are hiring. Do some analysis on the business initial. Most will have a site with testimonials from past clients, whilst other people might be blasted on scam blogs. Neighbors and the World wide web could be the greatest sources of information when it comes to acquiring the inside scoop on home painting contractors.

Look for contractors who are genuine when they speak to you. Some contractors may appear very friendly and could talk a huge game, but these much less genuine individuals are normally pretty easy to spot. Most contractors searching to scam their clients will throw all kinds of bells and whistles at their clients. They may have colorful brochures and presentation packets and may possibly even go so far as to lie about their previous jobs to make themselves appear credible. Recognizing who is being genuine and who is not may possibly be the very best way to keep away from being scammed by particular house painting contractors. For a reliable, honest, highly reffered, local Colorado Springs painter, call Bart Rafferty of Rafferty Painting and Construction (719)-492-3176 or visit his website @ confidentcoating.com.